what is fair trade?
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there are things i can’t comprehend. why my phone dies when someone is calling and i’m trying to push “answer” (censoring my calls?). why some people read two books at once. why “the bachelor” still exists while “my big, fat obnoxious fiance” is over. not to mention - chopped liver, chocolate sorbet and lattes are all lost on me.
but i do understand some. the truth behind brad and jen. the goodness of having a garden. the smell of summer. making out. and coffee. i am genuinely interested in, and aspire to understand everything about coffee. from seed to cup. a weird combo of nerdy interest and instant gratification has made coffee the center of my universe. most days. so i will write a little about coffee. bare with me (and help me help myself). not writing about coffee ever again would kinda be like saying i need to stop flossing.
since i came to san francisco, i hear talk about fair trade (FT) pretty much every day. behind my back, literally, when wholesale is answering questions about whether or not we have fair trade certified coffees. the only glitch is that no one on the other end of the line seems to listen. no sticker? not fair.
then, i read this blog post by tim wendelboe about transparency - which is mostly old news and stolen points, but still open, honest and well composed. and if there’s something fair trade is attempting, but consistently failing, it is to be transparent. fair trade is something businesses mention quite frequently in their marketing, and consumers seems to be obsessing about it right now. over the years, many, many consumers and wholesale customers have asked me about fair trade. why don’t we sell fair trade certified coffees? for me, one part of the truth is that i don’t believe in stickers or brands, i only believe in good business and that how good a coffee is one way or the other, can only be reflected in the cup.
obviously, there’s an “atlantic gap” in the importance of fair trade, and that’s why i’m giving it more of my attention and space in the cyber space now. but also in norway, the last year i lived there or so, consumers became more and more aware of and willing to discuss the issue of fair trade certifications. or any certification. in fact, i think i’ve concluded for now: fair trade isn’t good enough. it’s not good enough for the farmers, and it’s not good enough for businesses or consumers. i know i’m stepping on people’s toes here, but so be it. isn’t the only fair thing to pay farmers the right price to do an amazing job with what they farm? i’m in coffee solely for the sake of coffee. doing healthy business is just what it takes.
so, what is the right price? pricing, while not rocket science, is pretty important and deserves a lot more attention than many people give it, especially in an industry based on a commodity most often known for being extremely fragile for the market’s response for pricing. for those who didn’t hear about this, world trade organization (WTO)’s important doha round was a lot about farm subsidies. as far as i am concerned, FT doesn’t diverse too much from subsidies. paying a tiny bit of money (i don’t know the current premium, but it’s a matter of cents pr lbs) above the market price, doesn’t allow for anything but even more overproduction. current producers are producing more coffee from higher yielding varietals - like the colombiana case in colombia, of lower cup quality - and new producers enters the market on these premises. again, leading to over production and lower prices in the marketplace. and a tiny premium to the producers joining cooperatives who are FT certified. coffee is incredibly labor intensive - from growing, picking, processing, shipping, roasting and selling. so of course we need to pay good money - and most often specialty coffee roasters, at least the ones i’ve been working with, pay twice the market price. a really good incentive to do a really good job.
in coffee, FT is based on political assumptions about how to organize labour. this certification is only available to coops, not to a single farm. thus, coffees that most specialty coffee roasters are buying from i.e. central america won’t be FT certified. from the producer’s perspective, one can be forced because of financial uncertainty, into putting coffee into a coop blend instead of trying to hit a niche in the market. we, on the other hand, are looking for traceability and sustainable business in both ends, where we establish gentlemen’s agreements with producers about supporting them also in the future if the cup quality is there.
there is much more to say. and discussions to have. but there! i wrote about coffee! i can still do it, without champagne, sedatives, financial-incentives or sexual blackmail. i know coffee and i like it.
ps and peace on earth